DISC BRAKES FOR R & S SERIES VALIANTS.

What you are about to read is from my own experiences with doing a brake conversion on an S Series Valiant. If you know of a better way, please let me know.

Probably the best way to do a conversion from the standard drum arrangement on an S Series Valiant, to a front disc brake set-up, is to get your stuff from a 1970 model VG Valiant. Sure, there are a lot of other models you can use, but I'll get to that later.

If you can find a VG with a disc front end, you'll need to grab the following:

2 disc rotors
stub axles
brake callipers and hoses
brake booster (if fitted/required)
tandem master cylinder
brake rod, that connects to the brake pedal
manifold vaccuum fitting to connect to the booster vaccuum hose
wheel rims (I'll explain later)
the ends of the brake pipework, fittings that screw into the master cylinder and junction box - just snip them off.

In addition, you will also need brake tubing (steel lines are probably the go), which can be purchased from any brake mechanic, and I think that's about it.

Fitting it all together

If you've got a workshop manual, remove the front drum assembly and stub axles. If you don't, CLICK HERE, for a detailed breakdown of what to do. By undoing the stub axle at the upper and lower ball joints, the whole assembly should come off as one unit. The brake hoses should also be removed.

Undo the brake rod bolt at the brake pedal, and remove the original master cylinder from the firewall, by first disconnecting the brake lines, then undo the 4 nuts holding it on. The master cylinder should pull away from the firewall. Be careful not to spill any brake fluid on your paintwork. Disconnect the brake lines from the brake junction box, located on the passenger side of the car, bolted to the chassis rail, at the base of the firewall. Just follow the pipes along and you'll come to it.
We will assume that the parts you intend using are either in very good condition, or you have had them reconditioned....OK ??
Bolt on the disc stub axles to the upper and lower ball joints. If your disc rotors are still attached, and you want to leave it that way, great. To do it properly, you should really replace the inner and outer wheel bearings, and ensure that the discs are legal with regards to thickness.
Before attaching the brake callipers to the assembly, it wouldn't hurt to put a kit through the callipers, just to be on the safe side. They aren't that expensive to buy. Also, a new set of pads makes all the difference. Attach the callipers, and connect the brake lines to the pipe fittings, checking the flexible brake lines for cracks.

IMPORTANT......the brake callipers are "left and right". The bleeder vale on the calliper should be facing UP, not down, to ensure they are on the correct sides.

Attach the VG brake rod to the brake pedal. In the engine bay, slide the tandem master cylinder onto the brake rod and bolt to the firewall.
Originally, the rear brake line would travel underneath the car from the rear brakes, and bolt into the rear of the junction box. Not so now. A new line must be made, using the threaded connectors off the old lines, and run straight to the master cylinder. What this means is that you will also have to get a suitable connector to join the new line from the master cylinder, to the existing line coming from the rear brakes (I found mine on an old Valiant). The connector is a female attachment.
A new line must also be made to go from the outlet for the large section of the master cylinder, to the junction box, again using the threaded connectors you snipped off the wreck you got the parts from. To fill thwe hole at the back of the junction box, you can either find a blank cap the will screw in, or buy a small bolt that will do the same job, making sure the thread is the same.

PLEASE NOTE......when renewing old pipes or getting new ones made, it is recommended that you get a brake specialist to make the pipes up, as the ends must be "double flared" to ensure safety.

The brake booster should be mounted on the passenger side inner guard. A new line must also run from the top of the junction box, to the front of the booster. Both the left and right front discs should have lines going into the juction box also. On the inlet manifold, you will find a threaded plug on the outer branch at the rear. Unscrew the plug, and insert the manifold vaccuum fitting. Run a rubber vaccuum hose from this to the booster.

Wheels

New wheel cylinders should be used on the rear brakes.

It is now time to bleed the brakes, starting with the bleeder furthest from the master cylinder. Don't forget to bleed the booster as well. With any luck you should get a good brake pedal, and your days of pulling left and right are over. As for your wheels, your existing R or S Series wheels will fit the stud pattern of the VG rims, but they will scrub out on the callipers so, if you want original rims, you will either have to use wheel spacers, or get earlier model discs and callipers. Mag wheels aren't a problem.

As stated earlier, you can use different brakes from other model Valiants. The reason VG ones are widely used, is because they are ventilated, unlike the solid disc rotors on earlier models. Cars can also run with unboosted brakes, although it does seem a waste of time going to the trouble of a conversion. Also, it should be remembered that while there is a booster on the car, it only operates on the front brakes.

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